The Difference Between Chain Store

Fabrics and Quilter's Grade Fabrics

April 2000

The following is taken from an article by Jim Salinas in the Winter 2000 issue of "Spools & Tools". Mr. Salinas will be giving a two-hour class at International Quilt Market in May on this topic and more. His article takes some of the mystery out of fabric manufacture and why most quilters spend a little more for "quilter's fabric."

"Is there really any difference between the printed cotton found in chain store for $2.99 to $5.99 per yard and the printed cottons found in shops for $7.99 to $9.99? You bet there is, and understanding these differences is critical...

Premium brands, such as Moda, start with high quality griege goods (pronounced "gray," griege goods are unfinished fabrics in their raw state). Premium griege goods have a minimum of 60 threads on the warp and 60 threads on the woof. Many premium griege goods thread counts are higher than "60 square." Higher thread counts contribute to a silkier hand (feel), less bearding when quilted, increased longevity plus enhanced printing definition.

In addition to thread count, we have the issue of what diameter yarns are used in the griege good construction, the size of cotton filaments used, and the length of the cotton staple. As in all manufacturing, premium components cost more and add to the final cost of the product. The premium brands typically make use of a number of screens (the number of colors used in the print) and more complex engravings normally require using slower and more exciting flat bed presses than the high speed rotary presses used by the domestic mills on most chain store products.

Once the griege goods are printed, they have to be "finished". Finishing is a chemical bath that sets the dye into the cotton fabric. Unfinished goods or poorly finished goods bleed and have an extremely coarse and boardy hand.

As you might have guesses, premium brands are normally finished in a more time-consuming manner. This adds greatly to the silken hand of "quilter's grade" fabrics as well as superior color fastness. The long and the short of it, however, is that consumers do get what they pay for.

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